2008 ~ No. 10    

Austria

When reading about Austrian wines, the phrase “similar to German wine/grape varietals/other reference here” is inevitably used. (Hmmm…does the phrase “Marcia, Marcia, Marcia” pop to anyone else’s mind?)

Yet despite the similarities in climate, wine styles and labeling customs, Austrian wine is its own distinct animal, and most certainly worth a look. Or, uh, taste.

The Gruner Veltliner craze a few years ago served as a worthy introduction to Austrian wines, though getting your hands on some can be a challenge, as nearly three-quarters of production stays in Austria.

The country is on the small side in terms of production – just 51,000 hectares are under vine – and comparatively large in terms of producers. There are 20,000 small estates in Austria, most of who survive by selling wines directly from their premises. Large estates (defined as over 200 hectares) are rare here.

White grapes, of which there are 22 permitted varietals, make up 70% of vineyard plantings, with the rest comprised of the 13 allowed red grapes. The country’s wine laws dictate three general quality designations: tafelwein, or table wine; qualitatswein, or quality wine; and pradikatswein, or certified wine.

These latter two go through rigorous testing and tasting and must be certified in order to have the designation on the label. The vast majority of production is qualitatswein.

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Austria has four major wine regions, each with noted sub-regions. The best known of these lie along the Danube roughly 60 miles upriver from Vienna. Following this route, the first region you will encounter is the Wachau, where Riesling reigns supreme.

This area benefits from a unique climate where continental meets Atlantic, giving grapes the daytime warmth necessary to ripen along with the nighttime coolness to develop their aromas, resulting in wines that notably elegant and refined. The Vinea Wachau association has developed its own three quality levels for wine: Steinfeder is the lightest, while Federspiel wines are higher in alcohol. Smaragd wines are the most concentrated and alcoholic.

The next region is Kremstal (photo), which is less well-known though the area’s wines are quite seductive. The climate is more eastern European – i.e. warmer – with clay and limestone soils. Kremstal wines tend as a result to be very dense and lush. Gruner Veltliner is the top grape here, though many estates also produce top-notch Riesling.

Finally, there is Kamptal, which is similar to Kremstal in terms of soil, climate and grapes. Their wines, however, tend to be a bit more concentrated. Kamptal is also home to some of the country’s most innovative winemakers who are striving to put Austrian wines on the international map.

These are just three of the myriad wine regions in Austria. From Kamptal, the other regions continue spreading east and south, producing lovely red, white and even sweet wines.

Two to Try

A while back, I had the opportunity to taste the new releases from two very good Austrian estates. Here is brief background on each estate, with reviews and ratings following.

Salomon Undhof

This land was once part of a farm growing, among other things, the wine grapes and apricots that helped support the nearly Capuchin monastery. When Josef II secularized the monastery, the Salomon family purchased the land and established a wine estate in 1792. Today, Bert and Gertrud Salomon continue the family winemaking tradition.

These wines are known for their originality and character, the result of a unique microclimate: the vineyards are terraced, rising up from the river, which offers a softly moderating influence.

It is interesting to note that Salomon Undhof was the first Austrian winery to export their products, and today roughly half of their 8,300 case production leaves the country.

Nigl

Wine Reviews

Prices are estimated retail. A to F indicates quality level, 1 to 3 indicates value.

Salomon Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen 2007 – Grassy and balanced with green apple notes. $19.50 Rating: B1

Salomon Gruner Veltliner Wachtberg Kremstal DAC 2007 – A single vineyard wine that is bright and tart. Kind of like a star would taste. $24.50 Rating: B1

Salomon Riesling “Steinterrassen” 2007 – Oaky with a touch of minerals. Good, not great. $23 Rating: C2

Salomon Riesling Kogl 2007 – Crafted from 15-20 year old vines growing in a terraced vineyard. Minerally and restrained with notes of orange. $28.50 Rating: A2

Salomon Riesling Pfaffenberg 2007 – From a vineyard right on the river, this wine has a round texture and soft flavors, but with a bite at the end. $32 Rating: A1

Salomon Riesling Pfaffenberg 1996 – Floral nose, very soft on the palate and absolutely delicious. This wine isn’t showing its age at all! $NA Rating: A (no number value, as no price. But its quality indicates that you should buy the 2007, particularly if it’s something you might want to cellar.)

Salomon Riesling Kogl Reserve 2007 – Round with lots of body and minerals. A touch less vibrant than the other wines. Crafted from 40-50 year old vines. $57 Rating: B3

Nigl Gruner Veltliner Kremser Freiheit 2007 – Very round and creamy with notes of quartz, white pepper and white flowers. $22.50 Rating: A2

Nigl Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben 2007 – Good body and creamy texture with notes of white flowers. A touch astringent on the finish. $43 Rating: B2

Nigl Riesling Privat 2007 – Piquant and minerally with a slightly effervescent quality. $58 Rating: A3

Nigl Riesling Kremser Kremsleiten 2007 – Round and minerally. Nice, but not terribly distinctive. $45.50 Rating: C3

Nigl Riesling Hochacker 2007 – Crisp, with a sharp minerality and curiously (but delightfully) rounded edges. Nice. $70.50 Rating: A3

Pairing Wine with Politics

Someone recently asked me what wine to serve with moose. Ha, ha, he said. Barolo or Bordeaux, I replied.

But had I been thinking about it, I could have suggested D.R. Stephen’s Cabernet from the Moose Valley Vineyard. Another thought might have been the Testarossa Chardonnay Diana’s Reserve, in honor of the goddess of the hunt. Had I been feeling cheeky, the suggestion would have been something from 3 Blind Moose – the ones that didn’t get away from a certain vice presidential candidate, perhaps?

Those following the bruising battle over the financial bailout legislation in Congress might prefer to quaff Red Car “The Fight” Syrah, a mighty wine that packs a wallop, while watching C-SPAN. The Andrew Rich Tabula Rasa Red is, of course, for those who just want the whole mess to disappear. (They also do a cuvee called Coup d’Etat, perfect for those who threaten to move to Canada if Candidate X wins the election.)

Watching the debates is another matter entirely. Whichever side you are on, any wine from Owen Roe makes an excellent choice: they are named for an Irish patriot dedicated to upholding the principles of political equality and freedom. However, you may prefer Red Car The Aphorist Pinot Noir, dedicated to Marcel Marceau, who said so much without saying a word. You might wish that was a skill the candidates could master.

Finally, while you may not care about lipstick-wearing pigs, you can serve Wild Pig Syrah in these lovely lipstick-covered glasses. It even pairs well with moose.