2007 ~ No. 11
Do Inhale
How
to sniff wine is pretty much a no-brainer: stick your nose
in the glass and inhale. But there is actually some technique
to it, though you would bust out laughing if you heard what
some people recommend. (Okay, here are two: take short, quick
breaths in, the way dogs sniff, or trace the four compass
points of the glass with your nose.)
With that in mind, here are the basics of what to do. The
details are up to you!
Pour a little wine into the glass – about two sips’
worth. While the glass is still, and holding it by the stem,
bring the glass up so you can put your nose in it. Sniff gently
but deeply for the initial impressions.
Once you’ve done that, put the glass down and swirl
it. (Technique is important here: with your fingers on the
base of the glass, move it in a circle without lifting the
base from the table. The wine should come up the sides of
the glass a little bit, but won’t spill out.) Then pick
it up again and note the aromas that emerge.
Why sniff then swirl? Because the agitation causes different
aromatic molecules to emerge – and some to disperse.
So a premature swirl can cause the lighter, more ephemeral
aromas to evaporate before you’ve had the chance to
notice them.
The odors tend to be most clear about three to eight seconds
after you begin, so don’t get frustrated if you feel
like you’re not getting anything. Take a short break
(or sniff something neutral, like a glass of water) and try
again. Also, make sure the wine isn’t too cold, as that
also suppresses aroma.
Wine Words
There’s
a story I tell on a friend of mine who, at a tasting party,
looked at me as she sniffed her wine and said, “I’m
getting something, but I’m not sure what it is.”
“What does it smell like?” I asked.
She gave me a very intent look. “Cinnamon, but I don’t
know the wine word for it.”
Well, the wine word is, in fact, cinnamon. Aside from the
technical vocabulary, the descriptions wine pros use are taken
from every day. Think about it: none of us have an issue describing
the food we eat, be it the creaminess of a risotto, the earthy,
nutty flavor of a cheese, or the piquant lemon that’s
seasoning your fish. Wine really isn’t that different,
yet people like my friend feel intimidated when trying to
describe what’s in the glass.
If putting word to fragrance seems daunting, don’t
pressure yourself. Start small and broad. Is the scent fruity
or floral? If it’s fruity, then is it more red fruit,
or citrus fruit? If red, is it more strawberry or raspberry?
Here are some categories to get you started:
Berry: blackberry, mulberry, strawberry, raspberry
Floral: acacia, honeysuckle, orange blossom, rose, violet
Savory: bacon, leather, musk, oyster, soy
Spice: anise, cinnamon, licorice, nutmeg, white pepper
Fresh: basil, bell pepper, eucalyptus, mint, pine
Use your imagination and remember that practice makes perfect
- so of course you need to open a bottle with dinner tonight!
And a different one tomorrow night, and the next night and…
The Nose
Knows
So
with our three wines, what aromas do you find? Here are my notes:
Drouhin Macon Villages 2005
Clean, though with an initial hint of alcohol. Crisp and
simple, with predominant notes of grass, stone, apple and
pear. I also got a touch of wet fur…don’t know
where that came from.
J. Lohr Chardonnay 2004
Very forward and youthful, with notes of orange, moss and
grass (the first is more woodsy, the second fresh), and a
hint of talc. Simple but nice.
Bogle Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
The nose jumped out of the glass with this one – it’s
young and ripe, with notes of violet, raspberry and oak. There’s
a slightly green, vegetal quality to the aroma as well.
Nouveau,
Schmeauveau
November
always brings on a particular madness. No, not the family-related
insanity of Thanksgiving dinner. Instead, I’m talking
about Beaujolais Nouveau and the frenzy that heralds its arrival.
What often gets overlooked in the brouhaha are the other
wines from the region – the 10 cru Beaujolais so designated
because they are the area’s best appellations.
Beaujolais is a sizable district located within Burgundy,
roughly between the towns of Lyon and Macon. How big is
it? Beaujolais is responsible for 2 ½ times more
wine than all the red and white wine made in the rest of
Burgundy combined.
It’s also the only region where Pinot Noir doesn’t
hold sway. Gamay rules the roost here, creating light fruity
wines that are delectably drinkable.
People often describe Nouveau as (and dislike it for being)
“bubblegummy” with a noticeable banana flavor.
This isn’t a quality of the grape, but a side effect
of winemaking. Nouveau is crafted quickly using a technique
called semicarbonic maceration that happens to release the
same chemical compounds that – ta da! - give bubble
gum, pear drops and bananas their trademark aromas. So enjoy
Nouveau when it comes out, appreciating it for the fun “lollipop”
wine that it is.
Once it’s out of your system, pick up a bottle of
cru Beaujolais to experience Gamay at its finest. Crafted
using more traditional winemaking methods, these wines offer
excellent quality at bargain basement prices. Excellent
ones can be had for $15 to $25 a bottle. And they go smashingly
well with Thanksgiving dinner!
Each appellation has its own character, so use this list
as a guide to what will suit your palate.
Brouilly: Moderately intense, these wines
are full, fruity and supple but can be slightly tannic.
Chenas: The smallest of the cru Beaujolais,
full, generous wines are produced here.
Chiroubles: Light bodied and deliciously
fragrant, these wines can be quite charming.
Cote de Brouilly: These wines are less
earthy than those from Brouilly, with vivid and intense
flavors.
Fleurie: As the name suggests, these wines
have a floral character that belies their depth and structure.
Julienas: This region was allegedly named
for Julius Caesar. No word if he enjoyed these spicy, rich,
full-textured wines.
Morgon: These are among the heftiest wines,
with penetrating aromas and flavors.
Moulin-a-Vent: The most powerful, structured,
full of the crus, these wines deserve their reputation as
the “King of Beaujolais.”
Regnie: Granted its appellation status
in 1988, this is the newest cru Beaujolais, known for wines
that are fruity and supple.
St.-Amour: These wines charm with their
seductive aromas and luscious, soft flavors.
