2011 ~ No. 4    

Wine on a Budget

At a recent dinner gathering, someone told me – sotto voce - that he only bought wine that cost less than $10 a bottle. There’s nothing wrong with that, I replied. Good wine can be had for under a sawbuck.

Yeah, he countered, but how do you know what’s good?

Unless you’ve had the wine before, there’s no foolproof method - but you can improve your odds. Here’s how.

First off, look for the unusual. Grapes such as Grenache or Verdeho that don’t have strong market share or aren’t well known are likely to be better made at a lower price simply because they’re not chasing ratings or drafting on the popularity of a more common grape.

Second, look for wines from lesser-known regions. A Napa Cabernet has something to live up to; a Spanish Tempranillo doesn’t face the same expectations. So, again for marketing and economic reasons, the Spanish wine is likely to offer better quality for less money than the Napa cab.

Thirdly, combine these two and look for uncommon grapes from a common region. An Australian Pinot Noir at $10 will again offer better quality and value than a $10 Aussie Shiraz for one simple reason. The best Shiraz grapes are going into the best Shiraz wines. However, not so much Pinot grows in Australia, so better grapes can be made into less costly wine.

Following these three guidelines isn’t a guarantee – but hey, at least you’ll have fun exploring!

A Road Map

And speaking of exploring, here are some suggestions to start your quest for those elusive, tasty under $10 bottles:

• My all-time summer favorite wine is Vinho Verde, a very light white wine (well, green-tinted, hence the name) from Portugal. Slightly fizzy and low in alcohol, it’s hard to find a bottle of this wine that’s over $10!
  
  
• Spanish wines overall tend to offer good value, and that’s largely a function of demand. Look for wines from the Jumilla or Catalunya regions, or from the Monastrell or Grenache grapes.
  
  
• Look for everything-but-the-kitchen-sink blends, particularly for white wines. One good example is D’Arenburg’s Riesling-Marsanne-Sauvignon Blanc. On the other end of the spectrum is Big House White, a combination of 11 varietals, ranging from Malvasia Bianca and Gruner Veltliner to Viognier, Albarino and Pinot Gris.
  
  
• Seek out similar alternatives. For example, Italy’s Primitivo and California’s Zinfandel are made from the same grape – but the former is likely to offer a better quality-value ratio. Along the same vein, if you love a good Chianti, try a Sangiovese from Umbria. Same grape, similar regions, vastly different name recognition.
  
  
• While it’s often worth springing for Champagne for a celebration, sometimes it isn’t. For those occasions – or just when you want bubbly on a budget - look for Cava from Spain. It offers a similar flavor profile at a fraction of the cost.

Of course, it’s equally important to know what not to buy. Read the shelf talkers or tasting notes, or listen to how the sales clerk describes the wine. If the words are generic, along the lines of “very inexpensive and extremely popular,” walk away. (The quote is from a web site’s description of a nationally known white Bordeaux.)

Another phrase to beware of is “crowd pleaser.” Finally, avoid wines with too-cutesy names, critter labels (think Yellow Tail) or any brands that advertise.

A little knowledge is a good thing. Take these tips and consider yourself armed and ready to find something new and yummy that won’t bust the budget.

California's Central Coast

I recently taught a class on California’s Central Coast wines and of all the wines we tasted, there truly wasn’t a bad one in the bunch. There is lots more going on here than Pinot Noir, so let’s take a look.

Central Coast describes a vast viticultural swath of the California coast that stretches from Santa Barbara to San Francisco and can itself be divided into two primary sections.

The southern half starts some 100 miles north of Los Angeles in Santa Barbara and extends up to Paso Robles. This area, which is still considered up-and-coming, is perhaps best known for Pinot Noir, thanks to a certain movie. Chardonnay grows well here, and there are a small number of producers making excellent wines from traditional Italian varietals.

The northern part, which extends from Monterey up to San Jose and Livermore, was once known for its small number of mega-producers churning out inexpensive plonk. Today, the region is home to a large number of small estates producing interesting wine.

Together, this region is some 250 miles long, only 25 miles at its widest points, and has 90,300 acres (give or take a few) devoted to vines. Chardonnay is the most widely planted grape on the Central Coast, making up more than half of the total, though over 40 different varietals from Albarino to Zinfandel are grown throughout the area.

There are thirty AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) within the Central Coast, some better known than others. Here are three with interesting stories to tell:

Santa Barbara

Vines were first planted here over 200 years ago by Father Junipero Serra, who brought cuttings with him from Mexico. Throughout the 1800s, new vineyards were planted and wineries established. The industry, however, did not flourish post-prohibition. It wasn’t until the 1960s that researchers from UC Davis suggested that the cool temperatures plus distinctive soils made Santa Barbara a good location for growing grapes.

Of course, the area’s most distinctive feature is its mountains. The 50 miles of east-west range is the longest such traverse of shoreline from Alaska to Cape Horn. This geographic quirk gives the fruit an unusually long hang time, allowing the grapes to fully develop their acidity, tannins and flavors.

Santa Barbara also benefits from an array of elevations and microclimates. Nearest the Pacific, the grapes enjoy a very mild climate touched by cool wind and fog. The elevations and temperatures rise moving east, creating a warmer environment for the vines.

Paso Robles

The wine industry in Paso Robles, which is located halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, started with those friars planting grapes in the late 1700s.

But wine wasn’t really a commodity until the 1850s, when immigrant farmers from Europe planted grapes to make the drink familiar from home.

Their early success inspired other immigrants, and the late 19th and early 20th centuries were boom times for the industry. Estates established by the Dusi, Martinelli and other families are still going strong under the guidance of the third or fourth generation.

York Mountain Winery (called Ascension Winery when it was founded in 1882) is the longest continually operating winery in Paso Robles, and it claims a musically historical footnote.

In the early 1920s, Polish statesman and pianist Ignace Paderewski came to Paso Robles seeking healing in the area’s hot springs. He fell in love with the area, bought land, planted grapes and made wine at York Mountain. This touch of “celebrity” further helped the wine industry grow, and today Paso Robles is home to 180 wineries with 26,000 acres under vine.

Monterrey

The “Blue Grand Canyon” is sixty miles long, two miles deep – and starts just off the Monterey coast. Needless to say, it has quite the impact on the area’s wines. Its proximity means fog and wind, moderate temperatures and a helpful lack of rain during growing season.

The region is home to 42 varietals, with cool-climate grapes growing closest to the coast and warm weather varieties such as Cabernet and Merlot thriving in the warmer southern areas.

The wine industry in Monterey (such as it was) petered out once the land came under Mexico’s secular rule. It wasn’t revived until the 1960s, when a report from UC Davis classified Monterey as an excellent growing region on par with Napa or Bordeaux. It was published at a time when many wineries were looking for new vineyard land and the first modern plantings began.

Today the region is home to 85 vintners with 40,000 acres under vine.

What to Seek Out

The Central Coast has built its reputation on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (and very fine Pinot and Chardonnay at that) but that shouldn’t be a limiting factor.

In Santa Barbara, an increasing number of winemakers are working with Italian varietals to great success. Syrah and Viognier – traditional French Rhone grapes – also make lovely wines. Santa Barbara Cabernet Sauvignon can also offer a savory treat.

Paso Robles is red wine country, producing some nice Cabernet and Merlot. They also do some nice Viognier and Roussanne – white wines from Rhone grapes – and some fantastic (red) Zinfandels.

The surprising wine to seek out from Monterey is Riesling – most are dry of off-dry, not sweet, with a crisp feel, forward fruit flavors and a refreshingly satisfying finish.

Happy tasting!