2009 ~ No. 5    

Going Bio

Biodynamic sounds a bit like a superhero, and in a way it is. Founded in 1924 by Dr. Rudolf Steiner, biodynamic refers to a holistic system of farming and gardening that could be described as organics on steroids.

Hm.

Let’s call it organic plus instead.

Steiner practiced anthroposophy, a way of thinking that combines the interrelationships of the mineral, plant, animal and human kingdoms with the rhythms of the cosmos. He applied this system to farming at the behest of followers seeking his thoughts on industrialized agriculture.

In a series of lectures, he described the need to respect and replenish the land, and use only natural methods for growing and maintaining healthy crops – which is right in line with the organic philosophy.

Then there’s the “plus” part of things.

Biodynamics requires that several preparations be used for the health of the soil and composts. For example, one preparation directs that manure be packed into cow horns and buried in the vineyard at the fall equinox. It should be dug up at the spring equinox, diluted, and then used to fertilize the soil.

All work in the vineyard and winery is done in harmony with the earth to maximize benefit for the vines. With that in mind, a winemaker will do racking (a process to extract sediment from the wine) with the new moon, using its gravitational pull to attract sediment to the bottom of the barrel where it can be siphoned off.

France is at the vanguard of the biodynamic movement, with some of the country’s (and world’s) best winemakers hewing to these techniques, including Burgundy’s famed Domaine Leroy (Lalou Bize-Leroy, pictured), Rhone’s Maison Chapoutier and, in Alsace, Domaine Zind Humbrecht.

But they aren’t the only ones. While exact numbers are hard to come by, some 450 wineries globally engage in biodynamic farming. (A list can be found here.)

Practitioners, many of whom engaged in organic viticulture before upgrading to biodynamic, claim healthier vineyards through biodynamics with better soil fertility, and fewer pests, weeds and disease. They say the grapes show better balance on the vine and the wines have clearer, more vibrant flavors.

While converts believe it makes their wine superior, others consider it so much voodoo. A 2005 study from a group of researchers at Washington State University compared organic and biodynamic farming at a California vineyard and found no difference in soil quality, the yield per vine, or in cluster or berry weight.

So who’s right – the winemakers or the researchers? Well, holy biodynamics, Batman! It seems that the proof is in the palate: this comparative tasting by Fortune magazine declared biodynamic wines superior.

What's What With "Green" Wines

As we all strive to eat organic, buy locally and separate our recyclables, adding “drink eco-friendly wines” to the list is increasingly easy to do.

What’s not quite as simple is understanding the various terms, certifications and techniques used by grape growers and winemakers.

One phrase often seen on wine labels is sustainable as in “the vineyards are farmed using sustainable practices.” Think of it as organic light or, as some wags say, organic unless something goes wrong. Sustainable growers strive to recycle, conserve energy and water, and use renewable resources. They are committed to minimizing the use of chemical products but, if necessary to do so, will use the least toxic option.

Organic, of course, takes that a step further by completely disallowing any use of synthetic pesticides, herbicides or fungicides on or around the crops. This extends not just to the vines but also to the winery. To be a truly organic wine, only approved, organic processing aids can be used in crafting the wine.

Thus, if you see the phrase organically grown grapes on a wine label, it is not anorganic wine. While the grapes may have been organically farmed, it’s likely that the wine was made using materials not considered organic, such as sulfur or some yeasts.

Looking for a certification helps guarantee that the wine meets proper standards. Numerous organizations certify wines, including government bodies like the EU and the US Department of Agriculture.

There are also numerous independent organizations that serve a similar rold, including Demeter and Biodyvin, which certify biodynamic wines, Ecovert, an organic certification body in France, and L.I.V.E., or Low Impact Viticulture and Enology, which certifies sustainable growers in Oregon.

However, many wineries that practice organic or biodynamic farming lack these credentials. The reasons are many: The winery may not want to go through the expense or bureaucracy certification requires.

What's the Deal With the Headaches?

The cause is uncertain, but the pain isn’t: many people suffer the noxious and dreaded red wine headache syndrome, or RWH. (Yes, it has a name!)

Ask three people the cause, and you’ll get three different answers.

Sulfites have long been blamed for RWH, but that’s an unfair taint. While roughly 1% of the population has sulfite allergies, much of what we eat and drink every day contains as much or more sulfite than wine.

So you can reasonably ignore the “contains sulfites” warning, which is required if the wine contains more than 10 parts per million of sulfites. For perspective, that’s the equivalent of a drop of water in a bathtub.

It should be noted that sulfites naturally occur in all wine (red and white, and some white wines actually contain more sulfite than red), but cannot legally be added to organic wine, which is how they got their reputation for being non-headache inducing.

So what is the cause of RWH?

Some suggest tannins, which cause the release of serotonin, which can cause headaches. Given that red wines have varying levels of tannin, that does explain why some reds cause the pain and others to not. However, tea, soy and chocolate all contain similar or greater levels of tannin, so if these substances don’t give you a headache, that’s not the cause either. (If you think tannins are to blame, seek out wines crafted from less-tannic grapes like Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Barbera, Gamay and Tempranillo.)

Histamines are increasingly named as the culprit, though the few studies that have been conducted don’t find a link. Still, they suggest drinking black tea – which contains a bioflavonoid that reduces the headache/flush response – before and during wine consumption.

A third possibility are prostaglandins, substances that cause pain and swelling and can be released through red wine consumption. A suggested solution is to take ibuprofen before imbibing as a preventive measure.