2007 ~ No. 5    

Worth Seeking Out

Though isolated in the middle of the Mediterranean, the island of Sardinia was for centuries considered a strategic stronghold and has been invaded by, among others, the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Aragonese, Genovese, Pisans and the Sabaudi. Vines and wine have been present here for as long as these peoples have occupied the island - at least 5,000 years.

Winemaking traditions have come a long way from those early days when wine was stored in amphoras! Though vitis vinifera (the classic winemaking grapes like Cabernet or Chardonnay) were planted on the island sometime in the 17th century, the region's best wines are those crafted from several lesser-known and indigenous varietals.

The peoples who had the biggest influence on the island's development of enology are from the Aegean Sea and the Iberian Peninsula. Spain's influence in particular is seen in the prevalence of the Cannonau grape, known in Spain as Garnacha and as Grenache in France. It is the most widely planted grape on the island (and, in fact, is among the most widely planted grapes in the world.)

In the hands of Sardinian winemakers, Cannonau takes on whole new qualities, producing a full-bodied wine that tends to be high in alcohol and not too tannic. One I recently tasted from Sella & Mosca was amazing for its depth and the way various flavors and aromas emerged as the wine sat in the glass. Look for wines from the Carignano del Sulcis designation.

Vermentino is this island's classic white wine, dominating in terms of volume and fame. This is more a sipping wine than a food one, with a really fresh, fruity character. Though usually lighter in style, some producers craft the grape into a deeper, more complex wine.

This wine is a delicious refresher on a hot day by the pool or at the beach! If you do pair with food, think Mediterranean: shellfish, salads and other lighter fare. Look for a wine from Vermentino di Gallura, the DOCG* on the north end of the island. (*One of the country's quality designations - see next article for more.)

Other wines worth seeking out are those crafted from the Monica grape (a native red varietal); liquoroso, a fortified dessert wine made from Malvasia grapes; and Carignano, another imported grape (Carinena in Spain) that produces dark, full-bodied wine.



Italy's Rules and Regulations

One of the most important events in Sardinian viticulture was the promulgation of Carta de Logu, the legal code that governed the island - including regulating viticulture and agriculture - from 1392 until 1827. One goal was to increase, safeguard and incentivize the cultivation of grapes and wine; heavy fines and corporal penalties were levied on anyone not obeying these laws.

Like Sardinia, many winemaking regions in Italy created their own regulations dictating how and where wine could be grown. Rome began defining production areas in ancient times, while Chianti's first wine laws were written in 1716. Yet, it wasn't until the 1960s that a formal, country-wide appellation system was instituted.

These DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) laws created delimited geographic zones, each with specific regulations on such matters as varietals allowed in the wine, levels of alcohol, acidity and extract, maximum yields, winemaking techniques and aging. These laws were updated in 1992 in an effort to better delimit quality, though designation doesn't necessarily guarantee a better wine.

Here are some things to look for on Italian wine labels:

Vino da Tavola - the most basic level of table wines. Producers are not allowed to put a vintage year or grape variety on the label. While most of these are pleasant wines for everyday drinking, some of the country's top producers bottle under this designation because they choose not to follow the DOC guidelines for their region. SuperTuscans are the most famous example of this.

Indicazione Geographica Tipica (IGT) - Created in 1992 to distinguish wines that are clearly superior to the VdT category. These wines are allowed to list their region, vintage and dominant varietal on the label.

DOC - With the stricter regulations described above, these wines are the next step up from IGT wines. Producers are able to use special designations that can help further define a region or qualities of the wine. These wines must also be reviewed by a tasting panel to qualify for DOC status.

DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) - The highest status level for Italian wines, there are about 20 regions with this designation. The higher quality is "guaranteed" by two tasting panels, and these wines are grown under more rigid controls than DOCs. A region must be a DOC for five years before it can be considered for DOCG status.

Classico - Indicates that a DOC or DOCG wine is from a specific region considered to be the heart of the DOC, as in Chianti Classico. In theory, this zone offers the ideal conditions of soil and climate for the grapes grown there.

Riserva - This means that the wine received additional aging in barrel and bottle before it is released. Specific requirements vary depending on the designation. The minimum aging for Barolo, for example, is 2 years in barrel and 1 in bottle, while Barolo Riserva must be aged for a total of 5 years.

Superiore - Denotes a DOC wine considered superior because of its higher alcohol content and, usually, longer aging period. Unlike Riserva, however, there is not necessarily a required minimum time before the wine can be released.



A Taste of Sardinia


One of the easiest pieces of wine pairing advice to give is this: enjoy wine with traditional foods from the same region. In many cases, that's pretty easy advice to follow. In the case of Sardinia, it's a bit tougher. Okay, pairing Vermintino with lobster is a no-brainer, but one of the island's traditional matches - Cannonau with suckling pig cooked "a carraxiu" (in a pit dug in the ground) - not so much.

Because of the varied influences on this island, traditional Sardinian cuisine doesn't resemble what we think of as Italian cooking. For example, the island's pasta resembles couscous and other hearty grains rather than noodles - characteristics more associated with Middle Eastern cuisine. The use of saffron also reflects the influence of Middle Eastern culture.

Typical Sardinian cooking also relies heavily on beans - fava, white beans, lupine, chickpeas and lentil are among the most popular - and locally available meats such as pork, lamb and even goat. Needless to say, the island is known for their hearty stews!

Sardinia is also passionate about their cheeses, which crop up as appetizers, in soups, stews and ravioli, and even as dessert, such as the traditional sebada, a thin crust stuffed with slightly sweet cheese, lightly fried then drizzled with honey.

And then, of course, there is Pecorino Romano. Though believed to have originated in ancient Rome, most of this strong, salty-flavored sheep's milk cheese is today produced on Sardinia.

Easy at-home dishes to try with your Sardinian wine include lamb with fennel, fusili with a hearty, heavily flavored sauce, or paella. You can also type "Sardinia" into the recipe search engine at epicurious.com to get some traditional recipes.

Or, make life really easy and just head to Osteria del Sole in New York's West Village, where the menu and wine list offer tribute to this special island.