2007 ~ No. 3    

Lighter Reds Herald Spring

March is the year's ultimate transitional month, roaring in like a lion and trotting out like a gentle lamb. The heavy reds that warm throughout winter seem too deep and brooding as we anticipate spring. Yet, the chill in the air indicates that it is still too early for white wines.

Enter the lighter-bodied red! While Pinot Noir is a perennial favorite, this is a good time to try some terrific reds from Italy's Piedmont region: Barbera and Dolcetto.

Barbera is a grape native to Piedmont, which grows mainly in the Alba and Asti areas of the region. It has a unique combination of high acidity but almost no tannins, giving it a dark color but crisp, refreshing feel - almost like a white wine. Wines from Alba are considered superior to Asti, which tend to be a bit lighter and leaner.

Dolcetto is a spicy red grape rarely planted outside this part of Italy. It has less acidity and higher tannins than Barbera, making it a bit drier with slightly more body. Two of the best-known regions for Dolcetto are Alba and Dogliani.

The 2005 vintage is a great place to start with these wines. Despite irregular conditions throughout the growing season (the weather ping ponged between unusually warm and unusually cool), the grapes this year are quite promising. Mother Nature luckily got her act together around harvest time, gracing growers with near-ideal conditions that helped infuse the grapes with deep color and expressive aromas.

Barbera and Dolcetto make terrific everyday wines - they tend to be light to medium bodied, with red berry fruit flavors rounded out by earth and spice tones. Recently, I had the opportunity to taste through some superb '05s, and my notes reveal the following descriptions:

"super-juicy and yummy", "fresh on the palate", "great berry nose", and "round, juicy finish."

I trust you're sensing the theme here.

Barbera and Dolcetto, while enjoyable on their own, also make really terrific food wines. They are very versatile and will go with anything from a gilled burgers to filet mignon, pizzas to pastas with meat sauce, antipasti and hard cheeses…you get the idea.

Some producers to look for:

Marengo - a small estate known for producing wines of great complexity
Mauro Molino - lively, young wines at great, everyday pricing
F. Boschis - this family has been producing wine since 1919. They know what they're doing!
Azelia - one of my personal favorites.

About Piedmont

Italy's Piedmont region stands next to Tuscany as the country's greatest wine-producing appellation. It is nestled in the northwestern corner of Italy, surrounded by the Alps and Apennies Mountains - a remote location that has helped preserve the area's traditional winemaking styles.

This region has earned its glory from two wines: Barolo and Barbaresco, which are created from the Nebbiolo grape. These are often big, full wines with lots of structure and tannins. The best Barolo wines take 15 years to develop in the bottle, and can age for 50 or more years. They are stunning wines that rival the best of Bordeaux and Napa. Barbaresco, on the other hand, is designed to be approachable at a younger age.

Barolo and Barbaresco, by the way, are the names of the appellations, or areas, where these wines come from. You won't see the word Nebbiolo anywhere on these labels. Confusingly, the grape names (like Barbera and Dolcetto) do appear on the labels of other wines from Piedmont, though they are often modified with a place name, such as Barbera d'Asti and Barbera d'Alba.

Red wines aren't the only ones to come out of Piedmont. Perhaps their most famous white is Moscato d'Asti, a delightfully light, slightly effervescent, completely charming wine that offers a hint of sweetness. This wine is the perfect aperitif, can go well with lighter meals like salads, and shines with desserts like crème brulee, sorbet or even chocolate mousse.

On the other end of the spectrum is Cortese (again, the grape), which grows primarily in Gavi, in the southeast corner of Piedmont. The wine is dry and delicate, though has high acidity, which can make it a bit austere. It also is a subtle wine, with nuanced aromas and flavor. Look for the phrase "Gavi di Gavi" on the label. These wines come from vineyards considered to be at the heart of the region.

The Joys of Cali-Itali

An increasing number of California winemakers are crafting Italian-style wines from Italian grapes. While this may seem a bit redundant, the strength of the Cali-Itali movement indicates that these wines are a necessary addition to our vinological lexicon!

One of the best such producers is Steve Clifton, who started the Palmina label in his basement. Though first known for producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay under the Brewer-Clifton label, Steve developed his passion for Italian wines as a teenager, when he took a trip to Italy. Upon coming back to the US, he started work at an Italian restaurant as a way to learn everything he could about the country's wine.

Today, that passion is evident in the bottle. The goal at Palmila is to create wines from native Italian varietals that celebrate the country's traditions of family and food while maintaining a distinct California style - what Steve calls "left coast spin."

Last fall, I had the chance to taste through several wines from the current vintage and was simply blown away. It's rare to taste seven or eight wines from a single producer and fall in love with them all, but it happened in this case. Every single wine was well-crafted, with great flavors and depth. (No, he's not paying me for this.)

Among Palmina's red wines are Barbera, Dolcetto, Sisquoc (made from Nebbiolo) and Alisos (a Sangiovese-Merlot blend). Whites include Arneis, Malvasia Bianca, Pinot Grigio and Tocai Friulano.

Production can be limited, so these wines aren't always easy to find or available on their web site, but they are worth the effort it takes to find them. You can get on their mailing list at www.palminawines.com.

Celebrating St. Patrick's Day

A few years ago, I was invited to a St. Patty's Day party and instructed to bring something "Irish and interesting." Alas, bringing myself didn't count, so I decided to do something really different - make my own Irish cream.

Yes, it's very easy to go to the liquor store and buy a bottle of Bailey's. But isn't bringing homemade anything to a party more impressive than store-bought? And, when it's this easy, why not bask in a little of that glory? Here's all you need:

1 can sweetened condensed milk
½ pint whipping cream
3 eggs
3 tbsp. chocolate syrup
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
10 ounces vodka

Mix all ingredients in a blender. Refrigerate well. Shake before serving.

Slainte!