2009 ~ No. 3    

Mailing Lists Worth Joining

In this dismal economy, there is one bright spot for wine lovers. Mailing lists.

Many wineries, particularly those with cuvees that are higher end, highly coveted or smaller production, use this tool to sell directly to consumers. Getting on the lists can be highly competitive, with some requiring years-long waits to get an allocation of the wine.

But now might be the best time ever to sign up and secure a few bottles of these top-notch, hard-to-find wines.

Bryce Cutrer Jones, owner of Emeritus Vineyards in Sonoma, notes that the 2005 Pinot Noir (his first vintage, released in September 2007) sold out in a matter of weeks. Bottles from the 2006 vintage, released last year, are still available.

Even though he has more people on his mailing list, Jones says, his regular customers are buying less than the previous year.

It’s a sentiment noted by Jim Alsina from Hunt Country Vineyards in New York’s Finger Lakes district. Though the mailing list represents a growing segment of their business, buyers are gravitating towards the less-expensive bottles.

Even retailers who buy these high-end wines are feeling the pinch. Bill Knight at The Wine House in Los Angeles says the store is only purchasing half of their allotted amount, asking the winemakers to hold on to the other half until it can sell, a process that’s taking longer than usual these days.

“Customers are cautious, looking for bargains,” Knight says, adding that. “When suppliers are offering deals, we pass that onto the customer.”

Hunt Country has also started using incentives like giveaways and free shipping on six bottles instead of the usual 12 to entice buyers. “Usually, we don’t focus on specials, but now [customers] are looking more to price,” says Alsina. “We were concerned about our quality image, but got feedback from customers that they welcome our efforts.”

Bryce Jones at Emeritus isn’t offering any special deals, noting that, at $50 a bottle, his Pinot Noir is very competitively priced. In addition, since the wine isn’t available at retail outlets, he offers a discount similar to what is usually found in stores. “Right out of the gate, we offered a 10% case discount and free shipping on two cases. We felt that it was the right thing to do.”

The right thing for you? It just might be to get on that mailing list.

Finding the Sweet Spot

Perhaps you’ve spent most your wine budget on allocations, or just want an everyday sipping wine that offers good quality at a bargain price, say $7 to $15. Trying to find that sweet spot – particularly while browsing retail shelves – is daunting.

But there are a few ways to make the task a little easier.

Let’s start off by stipulating that “good quality” means a wine that shows varietal character and offers some depth and nuance. That knocks out branded wines like Yellow Tail and whole categories like Italian Pinot Grigio, most of which, at a bargain price, isn’t much more exciting than water when it comes to flavor.

The most important thing you can do is avoid popular grapes and regions. It is nearly impossible to find good, under $10 California Cabernet Sauvignon, for example. And well-crafted Pinot Noir at that price? Forget about it!

Well, with the exception of Little Penguin Pinot Noir. From Australia, it offers the perfect example of how balance low price and good quality, and brings us to the flip side of the above advice: Seek out lesser-known regions and/or grape varietals.

This wine is so tasty because so little Pinot Noir is grown in Australia that better quality grapes can be used to produce a less-expensive wine. The best Shiraz grapes, in contrast, are understandably reserved for better - and more expensive - wines.

Some value regions to consider include Spain, Portugal, Chile, Argentina, Sicily (and Italy’s other, lesser-known regions like Lazio or Apulia) and, particularly for white wines, South Africa and France’s Loire Valley. More unusual grapes to seek out are Malbec, Gamay, Chenin Blanc and Verdejo. Also keep an eye out for unusual blends, such as Tempranillo and Syrah.

As you’re looking, also consider lesser wines from well-known producers. For example, Louis Latour and Joseph Drouhin both produce top-notch Burgundies – as well as Bourgogne appellation wines perfect for everyday enjoyment.

Along those same lines, seek out the second label wine from a top estate, such as the Michael Lynch line of Bordeaux wines, from the owners of the famous Chateau Lynch-Bages.

Other examples include Artazu “Artazuri”, Spanish winemaker Juan Carlos Lopez de la Calle’s answer to his high-end Santa Cruz de Artazu; California’s Liberty School, which began as the second label of California’s Caymus and is now part of the Treana family; or La Vieille Ferme, produced by Rhone’s Chateau Beaucastel.

While it is certainly easier to find a good $50 bottle of wine than a good $10 one, a little judicious searching and a willingness to think outside the bottle will vastly improve your chances of finding the sweet spot.

Portions of this article appear in the Spring 2009 issue of Armonk Magazine.

Time to Stock Up?

Did I say “bright spot” earlier? Hah! The clouds are gathering as states looking to generate revenue are proposing new taxes on beer, wine and liquor.

Naturally, New York is no exception. In addition to allowing grocery stores to sell wine, Governor Patterson also hopes to double the tax rates on beer and wine. Should the legislation pass, it shouldn’t come as a surprise if those costs are passed on to the consumer.

Anyone have an umbrella?

A Brunello Encore

Despite last year’s pesky little trade kerfuffle over the authenticity of the 2003 Brunellos, things are looking good for this succulent Tuscan wine.

The 2004 vintage is superb, with the quality coming very close to that of the excellent 1997 and 2001s.

The year was warm and sunny, creating good conditions for growing the grapes. Estates that kept yields low (through pruning to keep the best bunches on the vine) and paid careful attention during the winemaking process produced some stunning wines.

Overall, the 2004 Brunellos are very refined and perfumed, though they still need two to three years of bottle age before they’ll be really ready to drink. Many retailers are offering these wines on pre-arrival and pricing them to sell, making this a good time to purchase your favorites for your cellar!