2008 ~ No. 6    

Shoulder Wines

June is wine’s shoulder season, when it’s time to shake off the heavy, complex cuvees that nurtured us through winter but not quite warm enough for the light, airy wines that make the dog days of August a little more bearable.

In other words, it’s time to stock up on the white wines that straddle these two extremes, cuvées that are full and round with lots of flavor and nuance yet don’t ask too much of the drinker’s palate.

Happily, for those with adventurous tastes, many of these wines are ones we don’t drink every day, making this a great time to explore new grapes and regions. Even better for bargain hunters, many of these wines can be found at lower price points as they lack market share and name recognition.

Viognier is a classic grape from France’s Rhone Valley. The grape is known for its distinct, vibrant floral aromas mixed with apricot and peach fragrance. Wines from Condrieu and Chateau-Grillet are 100% Viognier, while other appellations in the Rhone blend the grape with other native varietals such as Rousanne and Marsanne for equally delectable cuvees.

Good Viognier can also be found from California and Australia, both of which will be a bit more lush, tropical and exuberant than their French counterparts.

Albarino is known for its intense aromatics. The fragrance combines peach, apricot and blossoms, a combination that makes this wine reminiscent of Viognier. The grapes grow primarily in the Rias Baixas region of northern Spain, though some Albarino is produced in Portugal and, increasingly, California. In addition to its vivid perfume, the wine is also known for its bracing acidity and tart character.

Everyone thinks of Bordeaux as a red wine region – or as a sweet, dessert wine region. But a dry white wine region? Mais bien sûr! These wines are typically a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Rich and smooth, they nonetheless have a crisp, tangy acidity, pungent, herbal bouquet, and mouthwatering flavor. There can also be interesting notes of honey, almonds and figs, particularly in older cuvees. Look for wines from Pessac-Leognan, Graves or Entre-Deux-Mers.

The fun-to-say Gewürztraminer grape produces wine with a heavenly perfume and exotic flavors of lychee, rose and a hint of spice. Full-bodied and opulent, the best wines come from France’s Alsace region (where the umlaut isn’t used in the name). Comparatively, German Gewürztraminer is a little more traditional and less exuberant. Interesting versions also can be found from New Zealand and Chile.

If you are a traditionalist, or if none of these suggestions appeal, reach for a bottle of Chardonnay.

Often maligned for being oaky and buttery, a little effort to find a more moderately styled wine will pay off. Look for a wine from one of California’s warmer appellations that’s had just a bit oak treatment – enough to keep the wine’s structure and body but not so much that it prevents the grape’s luscious fruit flavors from shining through.

Alternatively, many white Burgundies also are crafted in a fuller style depending on which area they are from. These wines are inherently more minerally than their American counterparts, but offer just as much enjoyment. Let the label be your guide and seek out one from Corton-Charlemagne, Meursault or Montrachet.

Any of these wines, with their lovely fruit and floral aromas and luscious, round textures, will pair well with the lighter foods of the season, from ham to asparagus, pasta primavera to green salads. Really, could you ask for anything better this season?

Portions of this article were previously published by the author in the spring 2008 issue of Armonk Magazine.

The Week of Drinking Dangerously

I spent several days in May in Virginia, where my dad was having surgery. Somewhere around 8:30 following a very long day at the hospital (and - yay! - a successful operation), my aunt and I found ourselves at the local Greek diner, looking for some dinner and a calming glass of wine. Yeah, I know. But it was quick, easy and open. And we’d been up since verrrrry early.

The “house” wines were listed as Chablis and Burgundy, and at $4.50 a glass, I’d bet that there wasn’t a Chardonnay or Pinot Noir grape to be found between them. The handful of Greek wines on the list? Pass. So it was Corbett Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon, a whopping $5 glass. It was – monolithic. Big round, indiscriminate berry flavor. Not a lot of nuance. (D2. Need I say more?)

So, given that my palate was quite disappointed (and in the interests of reportage), I began reconsidering and voiced aloud that, maybe, perhaps, I should order one of the Greek wines. My aunt stares at me for a minute, obviously trying to come up with a polite way to tell me I’ve lost my marbles. She succeeded: “They have Retsina. Don’t do it.”

I stuck to the Cabernet.

Fast forward to the next afternoon. Pop is home and we’re chatting in the living room. I make some comment about getting wine for dinner. He asks if I’d like some now, since he’d put some in the fridge for just this occasion. (Yes, before going into the hospital for major surgery, he thinks to chill two bottles of wine. I love my family.)

Anyway, the wine is Rex Goliath Pinot Grigio. I’ve had the Rooster before (the wine’s mascot is a 47 lb. bird that was the pride of a Texas circus way back when) and find it a good value for an $8 bottle, but was a little hesitant since I’m not usually a fan of the grape.

But, they did it up well! The wine is from California, so it had a nice, fruity supple roundness that surprisingly offered layers of flavor without making me think too much about it. It was a little restrained right out of the fridge, but became quite lovely once it warmed up a bit. (Give it a B1 rating – not a transcendental wine, but fantastic for the price.)

The wine also stood in stark contrast to my vino the next night, once I returned home. It was a 2003 Babcock Chardonnay that had been open for about 24 hours. The wine was probably better a year ago. When I had it, the wine was showing its age, with a slight dried-flower feel, though the notes of apple and pear were still evident. It was a nice wine that I enjoyed drinking, but mentally I was too tired to enjoy the complexity and nuances it offered.

In fact, I really wanted the Rex Goliath back, which goes to show how much of a difference time, place and mood plays in picking a wine!

Wherefore Art Thou, Brunello?

The controversy arose a few months back, when Italy’s financial police began investigating allegations about the purity of the wine. Depending on who you ask, the issue is either (1) irregularities in vineyard yields or (2) that there are non-Sangiovese vines growing in Sangiovese vineyards.

So what’s big deal?

To the US government, it’s a truth in advertising issue. By Italian law, anything labeled “Brunello di Montalcino” is supposed to be 100% Sangiovese. If other grapes are getting into the wine, then it cannot be called Brunello and should not carry the official DOCG seal.

For vingerons of Montalcino, this could be a huge blow to their revenues. The appellation produces 6.5 million bottles annually, with 25% of that imported to the US. And not only is the current 2003 vintage being delayed, but newer vintages aging at the wineries also will be blocked.

Yet, from the reports I’ve heard, the Italian winemakers and government don’t seem to be taking the issue as seriously as one would think, given the potential financial impact on the region.

It’s impossible to predict what will happen, so what’s the bottom line? Well, if you enjoy Brunello, stock up - there are still some good 2001s out there! Or, just find yourself a good Chianti until the storm blows over.

For a fuller explanation, check out this Wine Spectator story (subscription required) or this Reuters report.