2007 ~ No. 7    

A View of the Rhone

France’s Rhone Valley stretches 125 miles in length, a distance that makes this region home to an array of distinctive wine styles – and very difficult to characterize.

This length is bisected by a swath of land that, curiously, has no vineyards. Yet it serves a key purpose by dividing the Rhone into two regions, creating a starting point for defining its wine styles.

Northern Rhone is perhaps the more staid of the two. Here, Syrah is the dominant red grape and Viognier the dominant white, with Marsanne and Roussanne (both white grapes) playing key supporting roles. As you might imagine from this short list, single-varietal wines are the best-regarded from this region.

The Southern Rhone, in contrast, is a blender’s paradise with no fewer than 23 grapes allowed in a particular cuvee. The four primary Northern Rhone grapes are planted here as well, though they play second fiddle to the red Grenache grape as well as lesser-known white varietals Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Clairette. This region is also the powerhouse in terms of production: fully 95% of all Rhone wines are produced in the south.

Photo: Chateau la Nerthe, one of the region’s oldest estates.

The Pope’s Wine

Wine has been cultivated in the Rhone Valley for at least 2,500 years, but the area didn’t come into its own as a winemaking region until the 14th century, when Pope Clement V resettled the Papacy in Avignon. Statistics suggest that 75% of the wine consumed by the court during its 70 years in France were produced in the Rhone Valley. These wines subsequently became popular in Rome when the papacy resettled there in 1378.

The brief but enduring Papal legacy is what gives name to the most prestigious wine region in Southern Rhone: Chateauneuf du Pape or, literally, “Pope’s new house.”

This area is home to roughly 3,000 hectares of vines. Situated on relatively flat parcels, the vineyards vary in their soil composition, though all share one commonality: the presence of galets (in photo.) These are smooth, rounded stones that naturally cover the soil, absorbing heat during the day and reflect it back onto the plants at night. This quirky feature helps the grapes to ripen more quickly.

Within Chateauneuf, the rules about grape usage are relatively strict. Only 13 grape varietals are allowed to be used in the blend. Some estates, such as Chateau de Beaucastel, use all 13 grapes, while others, like Chateau Rayas, use Grenache as the sole varietal in the bottle. Most producers are somewhere in between, such as Le Vieux Donjon, who uses 80% Grenache blended with 10% each of Cinsault and Syrah.

As a result of variations in terroir and blends, defining a singular Chateauneuf style is impossible. However, the wines can be grouped into two main categories:

• The traditional style, which is long-lived, full and spicy. These are typically made using time-honored techniques, and may need several years of age before they are ready to drink; and
  
• The modern style, which incorporates new (to the region, anyway) winemaking tools that create juicy, jammy wines that are approachable at a younger age.

While some 95% of Chateauneuf wines are red, a small percentage of white wines are also produced here. These tend to be crafted in a leaner, more modern style, with exotic fruit notes and a bright, crisp finish. If you can find one, it’s worth spending a little extra money on these, both in terms of quality and ageability.

A Great Dinner Date

Chateauneuf du Pape is a medium to full-bodied, elegant red wine that should be paired with foods that enhance these qualities. Before a meal, try it with pate, robust cheeses and olives. While the more modern-style wines can go well with summer barbeque as well as more highbrow fare, the more traditional wines go best with main courses like leg of lamb, braised short ribs, pepper steak and game. Chateauneuf can also work with pasta that has tomato-based sauces. Avoid pairing it with very spicy or salty foods.

Quick Tip