2011 ~ No. 6    

MORE WHITE WINES FOR SUMMER

What makes a good summertime white wine? Well, something light, maybe tart or citrusy with good fruit flavors and a bracing acidity.

Lots of wines meet these criteria, but anyone looking for something off the beaten path (vineyard?) should look to Austria to quench their thirst.

Two grapes stand out here, both noted for their crisp acidity and food-friendliness.

The first enjoyed a flurry of popularity a few years back when it was dubbed “GruVe,” short for Gruner Veltliner.

Depending on where it’s grown, the grape can be very pure and minerally or infused with citrus and peach flavors, or even some spicy notes. In Austria, it is planted primarily in the northeast regions of Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal.

These areas have steep slopes that can barely hold onto soil – stony conditions that give the wine its minerally qualities.

The grape may date to Roman times, but it became widely known as Gruner Veltliner only in the 1930s, with occasional uses of that name dating only to the 1850s. Before then, it was known as Weißgipfler or Gruner Muskateller.

It is descended from Traminer and St. Georgener-Rebe, an originally unnamed varietal, a single, old and weak vine of which was discovered in 2000 in an overrun pasture that had not been a vineyard since the 19th century. (DNA samples were finally taken in 2005, when there was a threat to pull the vine.)

The other summertime Austrian grape is the aromatic and versatile Riesling. Most people associate the grape with sweet wines, though it is often crafted in a dry style that can smack you in the face with its taut minerality.

Riesling is particularly terroir-expressive, meaning its character and flavors are strongly influenced by the soil and climate where it grows. That said, this wine can be distinguished by notes of petrol or kerosene in the aromas (it tends to be stronger the better quality the wine), and spicy notes in the aromas and flavors.

Young dry Riesling shows a range of flavors from green apples and grapefruit to honey, fresh-cut grass or rose petals. Typically, the wine is handled very carefully to insure the purity of flavors; it is often chilled at several points during the winemaking process and rarely sees any oak.

The first written mention of Riesling comes from a German storage inventory in 1435. The grape is believed to have originated in Germany’s Rhine region, and DNA fingerprinting identifies its parents as Gouais Blanc, which is rare today but was widely planted in the Middle Ages, and another grape that is a cross between a wild vine and Traminer.

Germany and France’s Alsace region are the most popular areas in the world for growing this grape. Though Austria’s Riesling acreage is small, the wines themselves pack quite the punch.

WINES TO TRY

At a recent industry tasting, my focus was on Austria. Here’s a summary of what two well-known estates had to offer:

Familie Nigl

The estate dates to the 12th century and was restored and opened again by Nigl in 2004. They employ sustainable farming methods, use only natural yeasts, and wines are bottled in the early morning hours when their ambient temperatures are cool. These techniques result in wines with an elegant depth and minerality.

All are from the 2010 vintage, considered challenging for its wide temperature swings, wet weather, and reduced yields. (By the way, I also reviewed some of these wines a few years back.)

Gruner Veltliner Freiheit: Fresh and crisp with green flavors and a touch of rounded creaminess.

Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben: Crafted from older vines, this wine had a more minerally nose than the previous.

Riesling Dornleiten: This single vineyard wine was bright and tart with a sharp finish.

Riesling Senftenberger Piri: This wine was challenging, offering contrasting rounded texture and sharp flavors. Interesting!

Riesling “Privat” Senftenberger Pellingen: Very fresh aromas on the nose but muted on the palate. It’s smooth and less sharp than the previous wine.

Schloss Gobelsburg

This winery was presided over by various monasteries since 1074. Eva and Michael Moosbrugger took it over much more recently, in 1996, and combined innovation and modernization to establish it as one of Austria’s top wineries.

The vineyards are situated on some of the oldest documented sites in Kamptal and are still farmed using the organic viticulture techniques established at the estate by the Zwetti Monastery in 1958.

These wines also are from the 2010 vintage unless otherwise indicated:

Gruner Veltliner Steinsetz: A single vineyard wine with bright flavors and moderate minerality.

Gruner Veltliner Grub: Crisper and cooler than the above, with notes of yellow fruit and even a bit of a squash-y flavor.

Gruner Veltliner “Tradition” 2009: This was a warmer vintage than 2010, reflected in the wine’s ripe fruit flavors. This has a creamy feel and nice spice notes.

Riesling Gobelsburger: I starred this wine – a favorite! Floral aromatics jumped out of the glass, and the feel was nice and round on the palate with flavors of quince and white fruits.

Riesling Helligenstein: These grapes are from one of Austria’s greatest Riesling vineyards, planted on a hill with volcanic soils. This wine is rich and sophisticated with nice spice notes.

INTRODUCING DOMAINE NEWMAN

The name “Domaine Newman” is rather dissonant. Why does a French estate boast such a decidedly American name? Is the owner a Seinfeld fan, or is it perhaps pronounced “neu – mahn” with a nasal emphasis on the last syllable?

N either, as it turns out.

Domaine Newman is a rarity: an American-owned Burgundy estate. After years of selling their wine in Europe and New Orleans (more on that later), Domaine Newman wines are making their debut in the New York market.

Tasting through their line was an absolute pleasure and I wanted to drink know more.

Thankfully, Chris Newman, the owner and son of the founder, graciously agreed to answer my questions via email.

FWC: Your father purchased plots in three grand cru parcels [Latriciere-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin and Bonnes-Mares] over 30 years ago. What was the impetus behind that purchase?

CN: My father [Robert Newman] was born in 1904 in New Orleans [and] he traveled a lot in Europe with his family when young. He retired quite early and lived most of the time in Europe. He had a keen interest in wine and fo od, which was rare at that time, even for New Orleans.

After W.W. II he wanted to rebuild his wine cellar. His friend, Alexis Lichine, confirmed that there were no wines available in France but that there were vineyards for sale and if he and some of his friends bought a vineyard, Lichine would manage it and sell the wine for them and they could have their shares paid in wine. They purchased Chateau Lascombes, a second growth in Margaux, [selling it] almost 30 years later.

My father always liked wines from Burgundy. So after years of searching, he purchased the Mazy and Latricieres-Chambertin and the Bonnes-Mares [parcels] at auction in 1952. He offered Lichine a percentage to manage and sell the wines left after my father took what he wanted.

FWC: Was it odd at the time to be an American buying vines and making wine in Burgundy?

CN: Yes, my father was certainly the first American owner in the Cote d’Or (maybe even first foreigner) and yes, I imagine it was odd but my father was very proud of it.

FWC: When you took over the estate, what was your background in wine?

CN: I was graduating from school in Switzerland at the same time as my father and his friends were selling Lascombes. By 1974 there was a glut of wines in the world…the market was very depressed and most of the group wanted out.

In Burgundy, the vineyards needed replanting, my father was over 70 and wasn’t sure he wanted to wait the 15+ years required for vines to really give good quality so he was even thinking of selling his Burgundy vineyards.

I had developed a strong interest in wine and had spent 2 summers working in Bordeaux and Burgundy. So I purchased Lichine’s share and took over the management and I convinced my father to sell me his share of the vineyards in Burgundy (over time fortunately).

Per your question, I never studied wine making, however I did take a year off from college in 1977 and worked for almost a year at the Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay. So I am pretty much self-taught.

Unfortunately in wine making you only get one shot each year and Pinot Noir is known to be the most demanding grape to truly master. I wish the curve had been steeper but I have been at it for a long time now.

FWC: When you began making wine, what changes did you implement in the vineyards or at the winery? What were your goals?

CW: What changes were made in the vineyard/winery? That’s a hard one. The main thing is, it is a constant evolution. The biggest single change was, at first I had other people handle the agricultural side. [But for] seven years now I have been organic/biodynamic with my own team and equipment. Also I have improved the winemaking equipment over time.

My goal has always been to make great Pinot Noirs. I really like wines that are balanced, fruity and have smooth tannins.

FWC: Your wines are finally coming to the New York market. Were your sales limited to Europe until now? What made you decide to reach out to American wine drinkers?

CN: I sell most of my wines in Europe because I didn’t want people to buy my wines in the USA just because I was American. Also a long time ago Burgundy wasn’t that well known in the States and was hard to sell and I am not a great salesman. I didn’t go in for reviews and tried to keep as low a profile as possible. I always sold wine into New Orleans because I’m from there, but otherwise sales into the US were very spotty.

For decades now the English language press is by far the most important and the USA is the most knowledgeable market. So, having some more wine available for sale, resulting from purchasing more vineyards, I hoped that I might find a quality importer and distributor in what I consider the most important market in the USA, New York. So I am pretty happy about how things worked out.

FWC: New York is a tough market to crack – what makes your wines stand out?

CN: I don’t know, as the wines are not made to win tastings, With no food and scores of big, powerful and extracted wines, it is hard for wines made to show off the finesse and elegance that I feel is the greatness of Cote d’Or Pinots to stand out.

THE DOMAINE'S WINES

From their entry-level Cote de Beaune Rouge to their highest-level creations, each offers the finesse and elegance Chris Newman describes. Seriously, each one was gorgeous, and if you love Pinot, seek some out.

Here are my notes on each, along with come comments from Chris. Prices are estimated retail.

Cote de Beaune Rouge, $35

FWC: Yummy! Savory with red fruit flavor. An acidic backbone, but soft and easy.
CN: From a single vineyard called La Grand Chatelaine. It is in Beaune and is held to the same standards as Beaune.

Beaune Rouge, $39

FWC: Earther, with notes of rare beef carpaccio, pepper and sharp Parmesean cheese.
CN: This is from two vineyards, one up towards the top of the Mont Baptault called Lulunne and the other parcel Les Beau Fougets is towards Pommard on the flatter land.

Monthelie Rouge, $39

FWC: Earthy with notes of savory tea and slightly overripe berries.
CN: From two vineyards acquired in 2008. Vines are about 50 years old in Les Riveaux and about 15 years younger in Les Fourneaux.

Pommard Vieilles Vignes, $58

FWC: Textbook plus in terms of flavors – very smooth, juicy and lip-smacking.
CN: From two parcels – one in Levrieres planted in 1921. The other, smaller, parcel, planted in the 50s, is in Vaumurien.

Beaune Rouge 1er Cru Clos des Avaux, $58

FWC: Initally closed on the nose, but soon opens to barnyard-y aromas. Also shows savory notes of earth, forest floor and mushrooms. Mmmmmmmmmm. (Yes, that is a technical term.)

CN: [This vineyard is] closest to the Domaine. [It] gives silky feminine wines [and was] planted in 64.

Beaune Rouge 1er Cru Greves, $73

FWC: Lighter and brighter than the Clos des Avaux (these vines are in gravelly soil, while the Avaux vineyard is more clay), it has more berry, cherry and dark pepper flavors, with less earthiness.
CN: [The vineyard is] very steep, on top of the Mont Batois. [It] makes big wines with a cherry aroma and good length.

Mazis-Chambertin, $165

FWC: Chocolate covered cherries! Also notes of cola, fruit, earth and tea.
CN: [The vineyard is] adjacent to Chambertin [and] Clos de Beze, which is just to the South. Wines are often elegant and long.

Bonnes Mares, $225

FWC: Savory but restrained. Very elegant.
CN: [Crafted from] two parcels in Chambolle. Big wines, very fruity.