2008 ~ No. 1
WINE APPRECIATION
For
the New Year, my resolutions include learning Mandarin Chinese,
earning a black belt in Tae Kwon Do, and cooking dinner –
from scratch – every night.
Yeah, right. With an infant in the house, there’s no
time for such frippery. Those precious, unoccupied hours between
midnight and 6 a.m.? I need them for sleep!
But without a lot of effort, we all can make some resolutions
about wine – and not just to drink more, or only better
bottles. For 2008, fellow oenophiles, let us resolve to:
Open Your Mind. It’s okay not to like
a grape or region, but eschewing, for example, all Pinot Grigio
(one of my wine bugaboos) means you’re probably missing
out on something. Italian Pinot is usually pretty uninspired
to my palate – but I once took a chance on a California
Pinot, which was a sprightly, flavorful delight. At least
once this year, find a way to step outside your wine comfort
zone.
Go Exploring. Expand your horizons further
by trying something completely new, be it a grape like Pinotage
or Albarino, or a wine region or country you’ve never
had before.
Jump Into the Deep End. How much do you
really know about your wine? For example, you’ve probably
enjoyed the frothy delight of Prosecco, but did you know that
the name “Prosecco” describes both a grape and
a specific type of wine? And we won’t get into the difficulty
of deciphering Burgundian wine labels! Whether you take a
class, just chat with the salesperson at your local wine shop,
or just do a little research on your own, get curious about
one of your favorite wines and get to know it a little better.
Cultivate a Source. Most people aren’t
too comfortable going into a store and picking wine without
help. But – you can’t always know how reliable
your source is. While many sales staff are knowledgeable and
enthusiastic about wine, many lack true expertise. It’s
worth the effort to find a store you like and a salesperson
whose palate you trust. They will seldom steer you wrong,
be excited about helping you learn more, and you’ll
have a go-to source for your favorite everyday wines.
AGEING
GRACEFULLY
One
of the most difficult questions to answer is, when is a wine
ready to drink? For months, I was haunted by a bottle of Williams
Selyem Allen Vineyard Chardonnay 1999 that was in my refrigerator.
The drink by date was 2007 – or 2005, depending on who
you consulted. The words “Past drink date” flashed
by every time I looked at it.
The bottle had been purchased on a lark, for a comparative
tasting with a bottle of the 2004 I’d acquired. But
one just can’t pop these wines open and guzzle them
down. The right food and company are essential to get the
most out of the experience, and it took a while to muster
the setting.
At last, a dinner of crab cakes and salad was assembled and
six of us gathered around the table. The 1999 was uncorked
with trepidation; I poured a bit and took a sniff. A touch
off, but it was mild enough that I took a sip. It was lovely,
though with a slightly vinegary hint at the end. A friend
tried it as well, and we decided to take the chance that the
odors would blow off. It was poured, along with the 2004,
and we began to taste.
The gamble paid off. Both wines were delicious – and
very different. The 1999 was very floral and full, with a
beautifully rounded texture. It was getting a little soft
with age, but it still had flirty layers of flavor. In contrast,
the 2004 was still sharp and zippy with a stony minerality
and more fruit notes, particularly citrus.
Everyone at the table went back and forth as to which was
the favorite. Both were quite remarkable, and each complemented
the meal beautifully.
And it proves a lesson: drink dates are only guidelines.
Many times you’ll be surprised, and many times you’ll
be disappointed, but it will always be interesting.
QUICK TIP
If
you are buying a wine with ageing potential, get at least three
bottles. That way, you have several chances to taste-test its
readiness and drinkability. (Many would say a case is ideal,
but that obviously depends on your budget!)
Use the guidelines given by reviewers to determine when to
open the first bottle, though you may choose to do so earlier
or later than they indicate. If you still feel it isn’t
ready, or would benefit from more time in the cellar, open
another bottle in six months and reassess.
A not-ready wine will taste young, unfinished and possibly
too fruity. It may also lack in complexity. An over-the-hill
wine (or one making that climb) will be a bit the opposite,
with the flavor becoming dull and lifeless.
TAKE THE
BULL BY THE HORNS
For some reason, I recently have been obsessed
with a particular wine region. It’s stuck in my head
like a 70’s disco song and the only way to get it out
is to share. So grab a map and come with me to Spain, where
tucked in the Castilla y Lyon region just 40 kilometers from
the Portuguese border is the rural region of Toro.
This ancient town is located on a fertile high plain, blessed
with abundant sunshine and rolling vineyards. Vine cultivation
began here around 210 BC, though wine became an industry
in the 11th and 12th centuries when Toro was teeming with
bishops, priests, scholars and members of the royal family
– a population that created a substantial market for
the wine.
Its popularity continued into the 13th century: Toro wines
made up half the cargo of the Pinta. (You know, Columbus,
1492. Does that make these the first wines imported to America?)
The first laws governing wine growing were enacted in
January of 1505, though Toro’s modern-day inception
as a DO dates to 1987. The number of wineries has increased
from four to over 40 in the past twenty years.
There is a saying in Spain that goes tomando vino de Toro,
más que comer devoro – drinking Toro wine is
more devouring than eating. And, indeed, Toro is known for
producing big, bold reds hallmarked by their color, strength
and jammy texture.
The best are crafted solely from the Tempranillo grape.
Known locally as Tinto de Toro, it takes up about 78% of
the vineyard space. Thin skinned and early ripening, Tempranillo
thrives in the area’s high altitude vineyards.
The only other red grape allowed in Toro wines is Garnacha,
which is the second most widely planted red grape. A handful
of Cabernet Sauvignon is planted, primarily for experimental
purposes, and small amounts of the white grapes Malvasia
and Verdejo grow here as well.
