2009 ~ No. 1     

Somebody's Knocking

These things always start off so innocently. In my case, it was an email from my brother in law. He’d recently read about white Bordeaux and queried me for some recommendations. Easy enough to pull together a few names and send them on. Mission accomplished.

Or so I thought.

A few weeks later, completely independently, my father in law also asked me about white Bordeaux. He also had seen some articles on it and was curious to know more about its grapes, taste and food pairings.

As it happened, we were going to dinner the next night – father in law, husband and I. Opportunity was knocking on our door.

Unfortunately, the wine list lacked any white Bordeaux, an all-too-common occurrence. On the plus side, we were at a large destination hotel with access to other restaurants’ wine cellars. Perusing through the thick master list, I came across a lovely – and reasonably priced - bottle of 2000 Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux.

Of course, since the wine was who knows how far away, it took a while to procure the bottle. Appetizers arrived and our wine did not. Then more food. And, finally, the bottle.

Anticipation was high. Conversation stopped as we put down our chopsticks (Asian fare is a great match) and turned towards the server as she opened the bottle and poured a taste in my glass. There were flowers on the nose, with a bit of oxidation. It wasn’t unusual, given that the bottle was seven years old, but it was mildly worrisome. I took a sip to confirm, and got that damp-newspaper taste of a corked bottle.

My nose wrinkled. “I’m sorry. It’s bad,” I said, turning to the server. She looked skeptical for a moment, but asked if we wanted to try another bottle. Since we were halfway through the meal, we feared the wine arriving at the same time as dessert. With regret, I ordered something else from the restaurant’s list – a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire, perhaps – and we moved on.

Or, tried to. Moments after the offending bottle was whisked away, the sommelier came over, full of apologies for serving a bad bottle of wine. We thanked him for his concern, saying we understood that these things happen.

Then our server came back by with the new bottle, taking the time to mention that she’d tried the Pavillon Blanc and, yes, the wine was indeed corked, and she was very sorry for that.

Before the meal was over, we received yet another visitor. It was the manager, equally contrite over the bad bottle and our disappointing experience.

Feeling thoroughly apologized, we left the restaurant vowing to seek out another bottle soon.

Of course, I wasn’t there when the next opportunity arrived. The three other players in our little tale – husband, and brother- and father-in-law – were dining at a seafood restaurant and decided to try again. All I can report is that the wine was disappointing, so much so that none remembers the producer. (See what happens when you don’t have your personal sommelier along?) ☺

Opportunity is a persistent fellow, and came tap, tap, tapping again as father-in-law’s birthday approached. Why not buy him a great bottle of white Bordeaux rather than putting ourselves at the mercy of a restaurant wine list?

Well, it seems that opportunity also has a mischievous streak.

My local wine store didn’t have any white Bordeaux, and the next store only had a $14 bottle from an unfamiliar producer. The third store also boasted only one bottle and, though it has the Rothschild name on the label, it’s one of the estate’s branded (less prestigious) wines. Quality white Bordeaux can be found for as little as $20-25, so neither was worth considering.

Thus, I trekked to one of the area’s big Kahuna stores where the trade-off for huge crowds and harried staff is an extensive, well-cultivated selection. As expected, several white Bordeaux were arrayed on the racks. (Cue the soft ray of light shining down as angels sang in the background. Oh, wait, it’s just the store’s holiday music.)

Among the bottles was the Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux from the excellent 2005 vintage - success! The gift was wrapped, presented and quite favorably received. Alas, my father-in-law has thus far shared neither the wine nor a report on its quality.

And my husband laments that he still hasn’t really had one.

Hey, opportunity, you there?

About White Bordeaux

“I didn’t know there was such a thing!”

This comment from my friend Mary sums up many people’s thoughts on white Bordeaux. The reds, of course, get all the glory, the high prices, the special place in a wine cellar. Many people swoon over Bordeaux’s luscious dessert wines as well, particularly the Sauternes.

But dry white? Not even on the radar screen.

It wasn’t always that way. In the mid-20th century, red grapes made up only one-third of the harvest, though that number reached nearly 85% by the millennium. Up until the mid-1970s, the white grape Semillon reigned as the most widely planted varietal in Bordeaux.

Today, the ratio of dry red to dry white wine produced is a whopping 5 to 1. It is hard to find on wine lists even at the most wine-centric restaurants, explaining in part our challenge in finding a good bottle!

The wine, however, offers wonderful texture and intensity with indelible flavors reminiscent of citrus and tropical fruits.

Considering that Sauvignon Blanc comprises at least one quarter of the blend, that’s not surprising. But though the wine shows classic Sauvignon flavors, don’t think it will be as zesty and exuberant as, say, one from Australia. In Bordeaux’s cooler climate, the grape takes on a refined, elegant expression.

In addition, the Sauvignon is frequently blended with Semillon, which adds structure, finesse and a rounded, honeyed tone to the final cuvee. (Tiny bits of Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris may be added as well, though they are minor players.)

The vast majority of white Bordeaux is produced under the very broad Bordeaux appellation, meaning that the grapes can come from anywhere within the region. And while some can be very good, much is only a fair to poor example of the wine’s charms.

The second-largest appellation is Entre-Deux-Mers (meaning the grapes only come from this area between the Dordogne and Garonne rivers), which offers wine of fair to good quality.

The two best white Bordeaux regions are Graves and Pessac-Leognan, which is hands-down the finest appellation for this wine – though production is also the smallest. (You guessed it – the fruit can only come from these increasingly narrowly delimited areas.)

Recent vintages have been very good to the grapes, making this a great time to seek out a bottle. Currently on the shelves are the 2005, which was a phenomenal year for Bordeaux all around, and the arriving 2006. Though this was an average year, the white wines fared well and are clean, fruity and quite lively.

The 2007 vintage was also superb for Bordeaux’s white wines, which show distinct aromas of white peach and grapefruit. These haven’t hit shelves yet but can be ordered en premieur, as futures.

Here are some producers to try, at levels from everyday to extravagant:

Chateau Bouscaut
Chateau Brown
Chateau Carbonnieux
Chateau de Fieuzal
Chateau Haut-Bergey
Chateau Haut-Brion
Chateau Laville Haut Brion
Chateau Les Charmes-Godard
Chateau Olivier
Chateau Pape Clement
Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafite
Domaine de Chevalier
Les Arums de Lagrange
Les Plantiers du Haut Brion

A Match Made in Heaven

Okay, you’ve got a bottle, it’s at proper serving temperature and you’re ready to enjoy it with dinner. But what to cook? Like many white wines, it should be enjoyed with foods that are on the lighter side – though you should take into account that this is a slightly fuller, more rounded cuvee.

Thus, when pairing with fish, it’s appropriate to think a little heavier and reach for swordfish, halibut or salmon. Top the fish with mango salsa or an Asian-inspired orange glaze for a great flavor combination. The honeyed tones of the wine make a nice counterpoint to the spicy Asian notes!

White Bordeaux also pairs well with white meats, from chicken and duck to squab and turkey to pork and ham. What you do with the dish is up to you; the wine complements everything from a simple, succulent roast turkey breast to zestier fare like chicken with corn, leeks and olives and duck au poivre.

Also think light if you match this wine to pasta. Seafood lasagna, mushroom risotto and pasta primavera are good choices, or put your favorite noodle with a pesto, Alfredo or vodka sauce.

Other good choices include scallops, grilled veggies, lobster or potato bisque. I could go on, but you get the idea. Pair well and enjoy!