2007 ~ No. 12    

THE FINAL ANALYSIS

The final step in wine tasting is, um, tasting it. This is perhaps the most challenging part of assessing a wine, as there are a greater number of things to consider and less time in which to do so.

As with smell, there is a certain technique to tasting wine. First, take about a teaspoonful of wine into your mouth then work it gently around, making sure it reaches all your taste buds. Aerate the wine a bit too by sucking a bit of air in through your teeth. This helps release aroma molecules. Don’t worry about this part if you’re not comfortable at first; it gets easier with practice.

As you do this, you should also be information-gathering, which is where things get complicated. Here are some key things to look for:

First, determine if the wine is sweet – not so much in terms of sugar, but an absence of sugary impressions. Unless it’s specifically a dessert or sweet wine, most wines are dry, meaning that most of the sugar (which is naturally present in grapes) is processed into alcohol during fermentation. The sweet impression comes from a combination of the alcohol itself as well as the flavors of the ripe fruit. Some “sweetness” is good in a wine, as it balances acidity, astringency and bitterness.

Acidity is another important characteristic to look for. Though it sounds bad, it’s actually a good quality for a wine to have. One with good acidity is literally mouthwatering, while too much has an astringent feel. This quality is evident in how crisp and sharp the wine feels on the upper sides of the tongue.

Bitterness comes from a number of sources, though the most frequent is high alcohol. In some cases, it can actually be an agreeable attribute of the wine.

There is controversy in wine circles about umami, considered in Asia to be the fifth taste but not fully accepted here. In Japanese, the word means “savory” and it comes across as a rich or meaty taste in the wine.

In addition to playing a role in the wine’s sweetness, alcohol also gives a wine body. This is perceived as weightiness on the tongue, and is also detected as thickness or viscosity. If a wine has too much alcohol, there is a sensation that the wine is “hot.”

People either love or hate wines with tannin, a compound that also gives wine an astringent feel. The fuzz on your teeth when you drink certain wines - or tea? That’s tannin. In wine, it comes from the skin and pips of red grapes, as well as from new wooden barrels. Tannins contribute to a wine’s texture, giving it a savory richness. Too much tannin becomes bitter and herbaceous.

All this describes the structural elements of wine – we haven’t even gotten to flavor! This is where your wine words come into play. As you taste, use the same process you did with smelling the wine to identify its flavors. While many of the flavors will echo the aromas, new ones may also emerge as you taste.

TASTING NOTES

The three wines we’ve been working with are relatively simple, so don’t expect to find too much difference between aroma and flavor. Generally, the more complex the wine, the more likely you are to discover new nuances as you taste.

Here are my notes:

Joseph Drouhin Macon Villages: Creamy and light-bodied on the first sip. Though there’s a nice acidity on the wine, it is also a touch flabby. Lots of apple with hints of white fruits and peach. Moderate intensity, short finish.

J. Lohr Chardonnay: Nicely buttery on the palate with hints of oak, vanilla and white peach. Dry style, some acidity, slightly rounded feel. Fuller-bodied and generally balanced.

Bogle Cabernet Sauvignon: Fruit-sweet and dry, a bit of heat on the tongue. The wine was a bit tight at first, mellowing after it was open for a bit. Notes of green/eucalyptus, black pepper, dark berries and plum.

CELEBRATE GOOD TIMES!

It’s the holiday season, you’re off to an elegant party, and are standing in front of the wall of Champagne at the wine store. It’s important to impress, but you also like a value. Do you go for the inexpensive non-vintage bubbly with the recognizable label? The slightly pricier vintage Champagne? Or is it worth the splurge on a prestige cuvee like Dom Perignon or Taittinger Comtes de Champagne?

The best buy is, surprisingly, vintage Champagne.

Here’s why. Though delicious, the limited quantities of prestige Champagne means high prices. And non-vintage bubbly, though at a wallet-friendly price point, is crafted in the same style year after year.

Vintage Champagne offers the best of both worlds. It’s made only in the best years, so you get higher quality and more limited availability. Yet, the price is often only slightly more than its non-vintage counterpart. That’s something to celebrate!

BUBBLY ANY OTHER NAME…