2010 ~ No. 4    

FRENCH WINES 101

The French are superb winemakers. But making their wines understandable to the uninitiated? Jamais!

Okay, to be fair, the French conventions of labeling wine came about hundreds of years ago. As recently as the 1970s, American winemakers labeled their wines “Chablis” or “Burgundy” because that’s what the public understood to be white and red wine, regardless of the actual grape contained therein.

Still, that doesn’t make it any easier to know that red Bordeaux is typically a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend, or that Sancerre is made with Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire Valley. (Uh, where?)

The country’s appellation system further helps confuse things. In addition to laying out a set of winegrowing and winemaking rules, the appellation system acts as a classification of sorts for each region’s wines.

It creates four broad categories. The first two are used for table wines: Vin de Table, which notes only the producer and that the wine comes from France; and Vin de Pays, which carries a specific region, such as Vin de Pays d’Oc.

The other two indicate “quality wine produced in a specific region:” Vin Delimite de Qualite Superieure (VDQS) is usually used for smaller regions or for those waiting promotion to AOC status.

The top designation is Appellation d’Origine Controlee, or AOC, which is the most specific and rigorous. These tend to be the higher-quality wines.

Given the fact that there are hundreds of such designations, however, they serve as a rough guide at best.

Really simplify things with this high-level view of what you need to know about the country’s major wine areas (very little wine from the others actually makes it to these shores).

It won’t make you an instant expert, but it will make looking at a wine list or browsing the shelves at the store a little less intimidating!

Alsace

What You Need To Know

Alsace wines – particularly the Riesling – are scrumptious with food. They can vary, though, from super-sweet to bone dry, so pair judiciously!

Grapes

Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat

What to Look For

This is the only place in France that uses varietal labeling for its virtually all its wines, which simplifies things considerably. If a grape name isn’t on the label, the wine is a blend.

In addition, there are only three designations, each of which applies to the whole region: one for varietal wines, one for Grand Cru wines, and one for sparkling wine.

More Details

Much of the wine is generally crafted in a dry style, though it can be challenging to find one that doesn’t come across as “fruit sweet.”

Wines intended to be sweet dessert wine are labeled either Vendage Tardive (VT) or Selection de Grains Nobles (SGN). The VT designation indicates wines made with grapes picked in November or December, well past the typical harvest months. SGN refers to wine made with grapes affected by botrytis, or “noble rot.”

Cremant d’Alsace is the region’s contribution to sparkling wine. The primary grapes used are Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Sylvaner, though a touch of Chardonnay will sometimes be included in the blend.

Cocktail Chatter

Alsace’s wines are not governed by French wine laws, in part because the region was often part of Germany, most recently (and, presumably, permanently) coming back under French control in 1945.

However, the use of the flute-shaped bottle is a legal requirement.

Bordeaux

What You Need To Know

These wines are hailed as some of the best in the world. They can also be highly overrated if the style doesn’t suit your palate.

Grapes

Most wines are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, perhaps with some Cabernet Franc thrown into the blend.

Bordeaux also makes white wines from the Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes. These wines can be dry (look for Pessac-Leognan on the label) or sweet (those labeled Sauternes are the best.)

What to Look For

For purposes of the discussion, the following focuses solely on Bordeaux’s red wines.

Wines from the “left bank” are made primarily with Cabernet Sauvignon. The best regions, which are listed on the label, are St.-Estephe, Pauillac, St.-Julien and Margaux.

“Right bank” wines are largely made with Merlot. Appellations to look for are St._Emilion and Pomerol.

Look for “second wines” from major estates. These are similar to the premium wines, but often crafted slightly differently – say, with younger fruit – and sold at less cost.

More Details

Pay no attention to the 1855 Classification. Since it was created, the list has had only one change (the promotion of a Rothschild wine, after much lobbying from the family) while winemaking and the region have changed significantly.

While the first growths remain some of the best wines in the world, many estates today are better – or worse – than their rank. Further, many excellent wines are left out of the classification entirely.

However, don’t think you can skimp when buying this wine. It’s hard to find Bordeaux that is both good and inexpensive. If you are going to buy these wines, you should be willing to spend around $30 and up (retail – closer to $60 and up on a wine list) for a bottle. Do not ever buy a $10 Bordeaux unless you want to be really, really disappointed.

Vintages

Left Bank: 2000, 2001, 2003, 2005
Right Bank: 1998, 2000, 2003, 2005

Cocktail Chatter

Counterintuitively, there is vastly more Merlot than Cabernet Sauvignon planted in Bordeaux – some 58% to 28%.

Bordeaux is the largest quality wine-producing region in the world, responsible for 25% of France’s overall production.

Burgundy

What You Need To Know

Burgundy wines are deliciously drinkable and among the most food-friendly available. If you’re out to eat and aren’t sure what to order, head for this section of the wine list.

However, these wines can be pricey – and vintage can be critical - so order judiciously and ask for a recommendation from the sommelier or wine store manager.

Grapes

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay predominate.

Behind the Label

Think of a Burgundy label as Manhattan real estate. The better the wine, the more specific the designation.

(Does anyone on Park Avenue not give that address, while the person from Harlem might live in “the city?”)?

Thus, when looking at a Burgundy label, the more geographically specific the name, the more distinctive and higher quality the wine – although that’s not a guarantee. Thanks to history and crazy inheritance laws, a vineyard site can have as many as 80 owners, so stewardship of the vines and winemaking skills can vary widely.

What to Look For

Burgundy divides into five major regions, each with its own particular strength.

Chablis - This is one of Burgundy’s two great white wine appellations. Once part of Champagne, this region’s still white wines are steely and racy with a bracing acidity and minerally spine.

Cote d’Or – Fully 60 miles south of Chablis, this is the next major region of Burgundy. It is divided into two areas: Cote de Nuits, which is home to Burgundy’s best reds, and the Cote de Beaune, home to the best whites. (See maps for specific appellation names.)

Cote Chalonnaise – This is Burgundy’s value district. The wines are similar to those in the Cote d’Or in terms of flavors, but tend to be less classic in structure and texture.

The Macon – These wines tend to be the softest and most approachable in Burgundy. Most production is Chardonnay.

Beaujolais – With its reputation for Beaujolais Nouveau, it’s hard to imagine this area is part of Burgundy. It’s strange but true, and these red wines bear almost no resemblance to their counterparts from further north.

The red grape Gamay rules here and, in the right hands, becomes juicy, savory wine that goes brilliantly with food.

Forget the Nouveau and grab a bottle from one of the 10 cru Beaujolais areas: St.-Amour, Julienas, Chenas, Moulin-a-Vent, Chiroubles, Flurie, Morgon, Regnie, Cote de Brouilly and Brouilly.

Vintages

Cote de Beaune: 1999, 2002, 2005
Cote de Nuits: 1999, 2002, 2003, 2005, 2006
White: 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007

Cocktail Chatter

The first rules governing Burgundian wine were established in 1395.

Champagne

What You Need To Know

Perfect for celebrations, champagne is also delicious with lobster, sushi and spicy Asian cuisine.

Grapes

Most Champagne is a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and/or Pinot Meunier. A blanc de blancs is made solely from Chardonnay; a blanc de noirs is crafted exclusively from Pinot Noir.

What to Look For

Vintage Champagne offers a better value than either non-vintage or prestige bottles such as Dom Perignon or Taittinger Comtes de Champagne. Why? It’s vintage, so it’s made only in the best years, but can cost just a little bit more than its NV counterpart, and much less than the prestige cuvee.

More Details

All Champagne is sparkling wine, but not all sparkling wine is Champagne.

In order to be called Champagne, two criteria must be met. First, the wine must be produced in a specific, legally defined region of northern France. Second, the secondary fermentation that gives the wine its bubbles must take place in the bottle from which the sparkler is eventually sold and drunk.

The classic Champagne style is nonvintage, which blends different grapes from various vineyards and several harvests. This is a highly skilled task, combining as many as 70 different base wines (which change in character each year) into a consistent “house style” cuvee.

One of the most notable things about Champagne is, it is ready for drinking upon release.

Vintages

1996, 1998, 2002

Cocktail Chatter

Though it is believed the French created Champagne, archival records show it was actually the British who created a consistent recipe for making sparkling wine – several years before it was “discovered” by Dom Perignon.

Languedoc-Roussillon

What You Need To Know

Typically blends of grapes, the red and white wines from here tend to make great quaffers.

Roussillon is known for its dry red wines and sweet fortified wines. Languedoc is also red-wine territory, though they also produce some delightful sparkling wine.

Grapes

Many of the grapes grown here are the same as in the Rhone, though many native varietals also are blended into the wines.

What to Look For

Languedoc reds tend to be strong and elegant with a rustic tone. Look for wines from the appellations of Corbieres, Fitou, Faugeres or Minervois, which tend to be the smoothest from the region.

Benedictine monks at Saint-Hillaire were crafting sparkling wine some 150 years before the Champenois. Look for Limoux, Blanquette de Limoux or Cremant de Limoux.

The dry wine appellations in Roussillon are Cotes du Roussillon, Collioure and Cotes du Roussillon-Villages. These wines tend to be richly flavored and generously fruity.

For absolutely gobsmackingly delicious dark and rustic dessert wines, look for the Banyuls or Maury appellations. They are the perfect accompaniment to chocolate.

More Details

Less than 20 years ago, this area was responsible for 80% of France’s Vin de Pays production – quantity over quality. That changed when flying winemakers from Australia landed on these coastal vineyards.

Over the past 15 or so years, they have brought a forward-thinking philosophy to the area’s wine industry that has helped improve and modernize production.

Cocktail Chatter

There are three times as many vineyards planted in Languedoc-Roussillon than in Bordeaux.

The Loire Valley

What You Need To Know

These are super food-friendly wines and tend to offer great value, as they don’t have as much name recognition.

Grapes

The primary white grapes are Chenin Blanc, Muscadet and Sauvignon Blanc, while red wines are made from Cabernet Franc.

What to Look For

The Loire Valley stretches from the Atlantic Ocean halfway across France, a distance of 630 miles. Within this vast territory are four major wine regions:

Pays Nantes – Muscadet is the primary grape, used to make wine of the same name. It is bracing and crisp with a hint of ocean in its character. As you might imagine, this wine is brilliant with oysters and shellfish. The Sevre-et-Main appellation is considered the best, producing richer, more flavorful wines.

Anjou-Saumur – Every possible type of wine is produced here, from an array of grapes. The key ones to remember are Chenin Blanc from Savennieres and Cabernet Franc from Saumur-Champigny.

Touraine – Although generally known for producing good, not great, wine, there is value to be had here. The best reds are from Bourgueil and Chinon, both made with Cabernet Franc. For white wines, terrific Chenin Blanc comes from Vouvray, and Sauvignon Blanc from Touraine.

Central Vineyards – Sauvignon Blanc is the primary grape in this part of the Loire. The best come from Sancerre and Pouilly Fume.

Cocktail Chatter

The Central Vineyards are so named not because they are in the center of the Loire, but in the center of France.

The Loire Valley is the largest wine region in France, and the second largest for sparkling wine.

Provence

What You Need To Know

Provence is all about rose!

Grapes

The primary grapes are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre though other local grapes are also often used in the wines.

What to Look For

Contrary to many peoples’ impression of rose, pink wine from Provence is fresh, crisp, bright and dry. It is extremely versatile with food and also delightful just to sip.

Though there have been vast improvements in wine quality, it can still be patchy. Bandol is considered the best appellation. Many good wines also come from the Coteaux Varois and Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence appellations, but do look for a familiar producer.

Les Baux-de-Provence is an interesting region for the requirement that all vineyards be farmed biodynamically.

More Details

Crafted from red grapes, the wine’s soft pink color is the result of allowing only brief contact between the juice and skins during fermentation.

A small but increasing number of red and white wines are made in Provence.

Cocktail Chatter

American blush wine contains nearly seven times the residual sugar* per liter than a Provence rose, putting to rest the notion that these are sweet wines!

*Residual sugar (RS) is what’s left of the grape’s natural sugar at the end of fermentation. A dry wine typically has 2 to 3 grams/liter of RS; sweet wines are at least 45 grams/liter.

The Rhone Valley

What You Need To Know

This region is known for spicy, fiery red wines. Think food, not sipping, when heading to the Rhone!

Grapes

The primary grapes are Viognier (white), Syrah and Grenache (both red). Though numerous other varietals are cultivated, you’ve probably never heard of most of them.

What to Look For

The Rhone divides relatively easily into two regions.

Northern Rhone is Syrah country, where the grape makes up all or most of the blend. The best quality regions are Cote-Rotie and Hermitage, where the wines are dense and dark. Crozes-Hermitage makes a good alternative to the pricier reds.

Lovely dry white Viognier wines are made in the Condrieu and Chateau Grillet appellations. The latter are a little less perfumed and hedonistic – but longer-lived – than the former. From either appellation, these wines can be pricey but worth it.

The rule in the Southern Rhone is blend, blend, blend! Grenache is the dominant grape, though up to 12 other varietals are allowed in the wine.

The best-known appellation is Chateauneuf du Pape. Others to seek out include Gigondas – a very underrated region – and Vacqueyras. The generic appellation is Cotes du Rhone, but bypass these in favor of a Cotes du Rhone (Villages), which are generally more reliable for quality.

Finally, the Rhone is known for Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a fortified sweet wine that is quite elegant.

Vintages

Northern Rhone: 1999, 2004, 2005, 2006
Southern Rhone: 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007

Cocktail Chatter

A mere 5% of production in the Rhone is white wine.

A FAST FOOD GUIDE

It’s easier than you think to pair French wines with food. Start with these recommendations:

The Food-Friendliest Wines

Look to either Burgundy – if price doesn’t matter - or the Loire Valley – if value is important - for wines that will pair effortlessly with virtually any cuisine.

Everyday Enjoyment

France’s coastal regions – Provence, Languedoc and Roussillon – are a great source for affordable wine to uncork for whatever reason. As blends, they tend to offer the best of everything in a savory, easy-to-drink package.

(Yes, this applies to rose as well. Pink wine is especially delicious with summer’s crisper, lighter cuisine.)

Spicy Food Alert!

Think outside the bottle if Asian, Curry or other spicy foods are on the menu and grab a dry wine from Alsace or a non-vintage bottle of Champagne. Both make a surprisingly delicious accompaniment to zesty cuisine. (Both also rock with sushi!)

Hefty, Hefty, Hefty

Wines from Bordeaux and the Rhone are known for being beefy and brawny, best enjoyed with food. However, Rhone wines can be a bit more approachable and adaptable than their Bordelais counterparts.

So for casual fare, pick a Cotes du Rhone; seek out a wine from a better appellation such as Gigondas or Chateauneuf du Pape if more sophisticated cuisine is on the table.

For the Finale

There are two excellent ways to go for French dessert wines. Sauternes from Bordeaux are excellent with lighter, fruit-based desserts. Seek out a Banyuls to pair with a rich chocolaty confection.