2008 ~ No. 4    

Eco Wines

If you want to be environmentally friendly and live east of Columbus, Ohio, is it better to drink California wine or French?

Surprisingly, French, according to a Newsweek story on carbon cost.

It ain’t easy being green, and one of the latest trends in environmentally friendly wines isn’t the organic or biodynamic movement. It’s box wine.

You read that correctly.

According to a study by The Wine Group (the country’s third largest wine company), box wines cut landfill waste by 85%, create less than half the carbon footprint of glass bottles and overall has 55% less impact in terms of production, shipping and displaying than its classic counterparts. (Yes, they’re pushing their box wines, but their data is supported here, here, and here.)

So as responsible eco-citizens, must we now forsake our California Cabernets in favor of - gulp! - Franzia?

Luckily, box wines and its bretheren in other eco-friendly packaging like Tetra Paks (aka juice boxes) have come a long way.

In fact, some big names are making wines in these alternative packages, including California winemaker Joel Gott, the French-American team of winemaker Dominique Lafon, Chef Daniel Boulud and sommelier Daniel Johnnes, and the Burgundian wine powerhouse Boisset Family Estates.

The problem, still, is perception. We all remember the box wines our parents kept and the astringent, biting flavors of the juice therin. And despite the marquee names behind these new offerings, consumer skepticism is still pretty high.

Okay, so they’re no match for a cult Cab – and seeing a first growth Bordeaux in a box would be a tad appalling. For certain occasions, though, we should probably get over it. Such as:

Hauling bottles of wine to a picnic is, well, no picnic. But wines in a Tetra Pak are lighter, easier to open (no corkscrew!) and safer.

Plus, the long shelf life of box wines make them ideal if you enjoy the occasional glass of wine – and hate wasting a whole bottle for the effort.

And what if you’re throwing a large, casual bash with a beer and pizza crowd? Boxes are neater, easier, more efficient and more cost-effective than bottles for those who aren’t overly choosey about their vino.

So for your warm weather escapades, to indulge your one glass a night dreams, or help offset your carbon footprint, take a chance and embrace the box!

We Interrupt this Newsletter…

This is where I was supposed to reveal the results of a blind taste-off between box and regular wines.

However.

The tasting group I’d planned fell through, so you’ll have to be patient until next month.

In the meantime, there is another item I’d like to follow up on about ageing wines. All reviews give drink dates of wines, and most wines will indeed keep for at least one or two years. But the point that a drink date doesn’t tell you is this: most wines don’t actually improve with age.

In other words, you can hang on to that $15 bottle of Chianti, but its flavors and nuances will likely be the same three years from now as the day you bought it, so you should enjoy it while it’s fresh. It is only a certain class and caliber of wines that improve the longer they stay in the cellar.

The other thing many people don’t realize is that Champagne isn’t intended to age either. Champagne houses do the work for you, ageing the wine in their cellars and releasing it only once it’s ready to be enjoyed. There are always exceptions – vintage Krug, for example, can last for years. But it’s not worth the disappointment to save that special bottle from your wedding for your 20th anniversary. Or, if you do, buy a backup just in case!

Come to Your Senses

Congratulations! You’ve successfully navigated the wine list, discovered a terrific wine from a great vintage at a fair price. The sommelier nodded approvingly at your selection. You sit back, relaxed and quite pleased with yourself when the sommelier returns and presents you with the bottle.

[Bleep!]

Breathe. It’s not that bad. There are just a few simple things to look for.

First, check to make sure it’s the wine you ordered, and that the vintage is correct. If not, simply say, “We ordered the 2005 vintage, not 2006.” At which point, you may hear that the vintage changed but the list was not updated. Ask if the vintages were comparable and how the two wines differ. Also check to make sure the price is the same. It often is, but doing so avoids any surprises when the bill comes.

Next, assuming you have the right bottle, touch it. Whether white or red, the bottle should feel slightly cool, indicating both proper storage and proper serving temperature. Occasionally if a red wine bottle is warm, I’ll ask for a bucket of ice water and chill the wine for 10 minutes or so. It sounds weird, but it’ll help the wine taste better. I’ve done this with everything from an everyday Pinot to older Bordeaux, though it’s a particularly effective trick with lighter reds.

The right wine, the right temperature…so far so good. The sommelier opens the bottle (six turns of the corkscrew) puts the cork in front of you (feel free to ignore it) and pours a little bit into your glass.

Do a quick visual check as you bring the wine up to your nose, making sure it’s clear. Now comes the most important part – sniffing the wine. You’re looking to make sure it smells fresh and vibrant with bright fruit, floral or other appropriate perfume. If the wine smells flat or musty (some say dead flowers, wet newspaper or moldy basement) then it is very likely bad.

If that’s the case, or if you’re not sure, let the sommelier know that the wine seems off. (“This wine seems off.”) She or he will probably sniff it as well, though they may take the bottle away first. Either way, a replacement should be on its way to you. This is part of their job, so there’s no need to be bashful. At one particularly memorable dinner, I sent a bottle back – twice.

Though you can stop here and let the sommelier know it’s okay to pour the wine, I usually take a sip anyway. This typically confirms the initial aromatic impression, though on rare occasion, the wine might smell okay (or borderline) and still taste bad. You’re looking for a lot of the same things as with smell – old, musty, flat flavors are bad. The wine should be vibrant and lively on the palate.

There are so many stories of diners who unknowingly drank corked wine – diminishing their enjoyment not only of the meal, but of wine itself. But a little knowledge about what to look for in the glass goes a long way towards making sure you get what’s coming to you: an excellent bottle of wine.